Balthazar Covent Garden, a review.

A Quick Overview

Cuisine: French Bistro

Price: ££

Location: 4-6 Russell Street, Covent Garden, WC2B 5HZ

Food: Classic French cooking

Vibes/Aesthetic: Parisian-New York fusion with live music in the evenings

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Balthazar - London Restaurant Tour

Visited: 10/04/2024

Balthazar embodies the ye olde New York bistro aesthetic with Parisian nods, featuring dark wood, red banquet seating, and golden accents. The live jazz music in the evenings and a reasonably priced pre-fixe menu offer a delightful escape from the hustle and bustle of Covent Garden. However, as is common in the pricey London real estate market, the tables were cramped, turning the act of ordering more than two dishes into a precarious Tetris game.

On the Wednesday evening of my visit, the restaurant was bustling, and our lone Italian waiter was skilfully managing multiple tables. However, despite her wonderful personality, the volume of patrons led to a lack of attentiveness in the service, especially when ready to pay.

Now, onto the food. We bypassed the starters and opted for the Moules Mariniere & Frites (£18.95) and the Steak Frites with béarnaise sauce (£29.95). Both dishes arrived promptly. The steak, though ordered medium and served medium-rare, was thoroughly enjoyable, with a meaty flavour, tender, juicy and a heavy caramelisation. The fries were well seasoned but could have been more generous in portion. And, the béarnaise sauce was creamy and decadent, elevating the dish's luxury. It was evident that Balthazar churns out many of these steaks, it was delicious and simple. The mussels arrived in a sizable bowl, swimming in a seafood-infused creamy sauce and an additional empty bowl for the shells. While some mussels were closed, indicating they weren't fresh, the majority were succulent, plump, and well cleaned.

Regrettably, we ran out of time for dessert and couldn't wait the 15 minutes for the raspberry soufflé. (Tip: consider ordering dessert before finishing your main course if time is limited, or be prepared for a wait.) However, we did indulge in the Balthazar Cherry and Chocolate Coupe (Ice cream sundae to you and me). Featuring milk chocolate and vanilla ice cream, perhaps slightly too generous dollops of unflavoured whipped cream compared to actual ice cream. Dotted with a dark cherry compote making the sundae feel more adult. Perhaps a tad overpriced at £9.50 but it came in a pretty glass coupe.

Overall, Balthazar delivered high-quality fare that momentarily transported us to a classic New York steakhouse, albeit at a more affordable price point, especially with the set menu options (2 courses £26.50). While I'm not typically a steak enthusiast, I would gladly return to Balthazar for that alone, and, of course, to finally sample the soufflé that has been calling my name.

If you’re in Covent Garden – I would recommend.

7.5/10