BAO Soho, a review.

A Quick Overview

Cuisine: Asian, Taiwanese

Price: ££

Location: 53 Lexington St, Soho, London, W1F 9AS

Michelin Guide: Bib Gourmand

Food: Streamlined and filling yet budget friendly

Vibes/Aesthetic: Chill, compact, wooden and open with small plates to share

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BAO, Soho - London Restaurant Tour

Visited: 04/01/2024

Bao Soho the original location of the BAO franchise serves up, in a compact but well formed store reflecting the style of a Taiwanese Xiao Chi house, an equally compact but well formed Asian menu of small plates and quirky drinks. 

As you step inside, the ambiance is light, with a dash of intimacy. The cleverly designed layout makes the most of the small footprint, although when filled it can be hard to manoeuvre, the seating arrangement manages to carve out individual nooks for the diners. The walls around the store are made of wood panelling, with pegs to hang up your coats - a great idea except when your coat is wet, and the rain drips onto your table.

The menu is yes compact but has a good variety of options (and even something for the vegan friend), apart from when you find yourself in the bao section which really did feel too small considering the name of the restaurant. Ordering here is easy, use the provided pencil to write the quantity of the dishes you want in the boxes and hand to your waiter. Kudos to the attentive staff, orchestrating a dining experience that strikes the perfect balance between efficiency and laid-back vibes.

To drink I had the Yakult float - I was intrigued by the description of fermented pineapple soda and Yakult foam and I had envisioned a virgin Pina-colada type of situation - that, alas, was incorrect. It tasted nice but was not the harmonious tropic blend it could have been - I might as well of had them separately. The granules of rock salt added a bold touch, which could have worked well if the granules weren't so big that you winced slightly from the saltiness after each sip.

To the food, and the kitchen works quick! Before long the baos had arrived. We went for the confit pork and fried chicken bao and sweet potato fries with plum pickle ketchup. The fries were crisp and the ketchup had a tanginess that I would have liked as a pot on the side instead of the artsy drizzle on top, but I mindlessly munched through the whole serving in five seconds.

Onto the main attraction - the baos. The confit pork bao, though well-cooked and soft, lacked fireworks and diverse flavours, leaning heavily on a sweet hoisin-style sauce. But the buns themselves were very soft and fluffy as they should be. The fried chicken bao, presented more as a bao burger, was crispy and juicy. Though I couldn't tell you anything about the mysterious grey bun which added nothing new to the flavour of the bao. The spicy sauce on the chicken added a pleasant kick, however I would have wanted more sauce. My dining companion also ordered the guinea fowl rice bowl – a rarity to find such a bird on a mid-priced menu in London. The soft guinea fowl meat, coupled with a luscious egg yolk enveloping the rice and the crispy onions added more texture - earning its spot as the star of their BAO experience.

Finally, dessert - my favourite course of the meal and it didn’t disappoint. The fried Horlick ice cream. I was expecting a breaded and deep friend ice cream ball which it wasn’t. But the fried doughnut/bao sandwich transported me to West Africa as it smelt similar to a snack called puff puff. The Horlicks ice cream was creamy, smooth and malty, and the whole dish was a tasty, dessert sandwich with pleasing contrasting temperatures. It tasted distinctly like Horlicks and was a great end to the meal. And in that moment I understood why BAO only had one dessert - it was all that was needed. 

To conclude, BAO Soho has had a Bib Gourmand for 8 years now and offers an affordable foray into Asian cuisine. While the £6 bao buns align with London's average, the culinary journey, though enjoyable, will not leave an indelible mark compared to other Asian restaurants in the city. The sides and dessert sparkled, yet the baos, the main event, left me yearning for a more profound impact. Nevertheless, the stellar staff and swift service ensure a solid dining experience should you decide to go.

If you’re in the Soho area and want a bao or some Horlicks ice cream - I would recommend, but no need to go out of your way.

6.5/10

This year I am going on a tour of all the Bib Gourmand restaurants in London and will write reviews for each one, so come back soon for more :)

Visit BAO Soho: https://baolondon.com/restaurant/bao-soho/