Dishoom Battersea, a review.

Dishoom Battersea charms with its homage to Bombay's old Irani cafes, yet delivers a mixed culinary experience where ambiance outshines the subtly-spiced fare.

A Quick Overview

Cuisine: Indian

Price: ££

Location: 42 Electric Boulevard, Battersea, SW11 8BJ

Food: Flavourful and expensive

Vibes/Aesthetic: Sleek, opulent, futuristic Indian café

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Dishoom - London Restaurant Tour

Visited: 16/06/2024

Battersea Power Station is an imposing figure on the banks of the river Thames. So iconic was its figure on the London skyline that Brits flying over London during World War II would know they are almost home when they saw its plumes of smoke. Many years later after multiple ideas and half projects of regeneration, the power station has been transformed into a modern super luxe shopping centre.

(Source: New Civil Engineer)

Dishoom is a chain of popular restaurants inspired by old Irani cafes of Bombay and now has 10 locations across England and Scotland. The Battersea eatery is across two floors with dark timbers, lush greens in-keeping with Dishooms general style and a pop of electric blue as a nod to it location. As with Dishooms other locations there was a queue on arrival however we were quickly seated with our reservation. Also, in classic Dishoom style, there were multiple tables crammed into the space but smartly organised so that you faced away from the other diners where possible. Our server was lovely, energetic and a mistake on dessert was corrected swiftly leaving us with a good impression of the service.

The food highlight was the vada pau a fluffy bun filled with a spiced potato patty and masala chutney and when combined with the fresh mint chutney on the table - it was a delightful vegetarian option. The combination of two humble carbs into something glorious and comforting. Yet, the £6.20 price tag leaves one wishing for a more generous helping of this simple, yet soul-warming fare.

The culinary pilgrimage continues with Dishoom's cult classics: the lamb samosas, chicken berry biryani, and chicken ruby curry. While the ruby's creamy texture and tender chicken invite you to drench your naan and rice in its sauce, the subtlety of its spicing leave you wanting more complexity and more layering of flavour. The biryani, too, whispers rather than sings perhaps in effort to appeal to the masses.

The cheese naan was soft and buttery and the house black daal was rich but could have had a touch more salt to unlock its full potential. Meanwhile, the spicy lamb chops, despite their tenderness and charred edges, carry a price tag (£17.90) that outweighs the modesty of the portion, especially when the sheekh kebabs offers more meat for £12.70.

Dessert brought a juxtaposition of sensations and temperatures with a dark, molten chocolate pudding. Its richness tempered by the assertive kick of Kashmiri chilli from the ice cream, though the dainty portion left one's sweet tooth only partially sated. The mango kulfi drink was the perfect texture not too thick or runny and the mango was a refreshing reprieve from a rich meal.

Dishoom has indeed expanded its reach, and its allure is apparent in the thoughtful decor and well-tuned service. However, the cuisine, while well-executed, seems to play it safe with flavours, hinting at a reluctance to challenge diners with the authentic flavour and heat of Indian spicing. It stands as a reliable choice for those seeking the comfort of Indian cuisine, but for the culinary adventurer, it may fall shy of expectation.

6.5/10