Smokestak Shoreditch, a review.
- Suzi
- Dec 21, 2023
- 3 min read

A Quick Overview
Cuisine: Meats and barbecue
Price: ££
Location: 5 Sclater Street, London, GB E1 6LB
Michelin Guide: Bib Gourmand
Food: Tasty, Rich, Well-crafted
Vibes/Aesthetic: Chill, Smoky, neighbourhood place with a New York industrial complex theme, dark wood, metal and slightly cramped seating
Toilets: Few, and down some stairs (not the most accessible)
SmokeStak Shoreditch - London Restaurant Tour
Visited: 10/12/2023
Well, the name is certainly apt - don't wear your Sunday best, folks. Walking down Sclater Street, lined with new builds with expanses of glass on one side and on the other an old, abandoned prison adorned with colourful graffiti and young people outside taking Instagram shots. The contrast is very Shoreditch.
However, not so easily recognisable was the restaurant I was visiting. With no large signs on the exterior, all that gave away that we were at the right spot was the sudden emergence of dark iron breaking up the fairly new exterior of the building and a covered alfresco dining area in the same iron colour abuzz with people (also Google Maps said it was the right place). Once I eventually found the right door only then could I see the small round SmokeStak logo blended in with the rest of the iron façade. At first, I found it rather annoying that the signage was not obvious but perhaps that was on purpose because as soon as you step inside you get the distinct feeling that this is a local spot. Those that know, know and that’s all they need to fill the place on a Sunday afternoon.
I had made a booking, and my group was promptly shown to our seats near the pass of the open kitchen. It was nice to see the goings on and the eagle-eyed head chef sending things back that he wasn’t happy with – always a good sign. It took us a while to be served – in general a quite hands-off approach to service, though perhaps in part because of the busyness of the restaurant. But once we had placed our orders it was off to the races! The starters came so quickly you would think they were listening to our discussion of what to get.
For starters, we had the gochujang wings and crispy ox cheek with anchovy mayo. The wings were big, so you didn’t feel shortchanged as you only got three and had the distinct red colour in the glaze, making them messy but delicious to eat. Each wing was juicy and sweet – slightly more spice to warm the throat would have been a welcome addition. The crispy ox cheek was…crispy (laugh you might – but many a restaurant fall at this crucial step) and soft on the inside, however by itself was under seasoned but don’t worry as soon as you paired it with the delightfully, rich, and salty anchovy mayo it was glorious.
Time for the mains and they all come on one big metal tray, and it becomes a help-yourself feast. We had the brisket, brisket bun and charred pork belly which comes with various pickles and the brisket with a sauce (the ribs were sold out by the time we got there). Sides come separately (both literally and price-wise), and we got the aioli chips, charred greens dressed in tahini, pomegranate, and roasted peanuts as well as raw broccoli, bacon, shallot, and sultanas. The brisket was lusciously soft and meaty, there were 2 slices for £17.50 which feels perhaps on the steep side but if you got starters was more than enough to make you burst at the seems due to its richness. Although the brisket was soft, I expected more smoky flavour, it seemed the dining room delivered that more than the meat itself (alas there was a BBQ sauce on the side). The veg dishes were a welcomed accompaniment. The chips were perfectly crisp and again I enjoyed the aioli immensely, perhaps it would have been better served on the side rather than dumped on top from a logistical standpoint – but boy do SmokeStak do a good posh mayo.
For dessert, there was only one choice, the sticky toffee pudding (figuratively speaking that is, there were actually two desserts on the menu). A solid effort. Soft, warm, sticky, and sweet. The ice cream was good as well – greedy me would have wanted a slightly more generous scoop on top, but I have a sweet tooth.
All in all, I would recommend going to Smokestak for some delicious Southern American-style brisket with upscale sides. A small, well-crafted menu, where you wouldn’t be at risk with any item, everything looks good and is done well. I second the Michelin man's Bib Gourmand.
If you’re in the London area – it’s a worthwhile stop without breaking the bank.
8/10
(Source: SmokeStak, menu as of December 2023)
Why did the BBQ chef get sacked?
He always got too fired up and charred away!
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